Camino de Fisterra Part 1: Santiago to Negreira

One of the perks of living in Santiago is that the various routes of the Camino de Santiago can be broken down into day hikes. I started the Camino de Fisterra a few weeks ago by walking the first 20 km leg from Santiago to Negreira. 

                                          A map of the route for the Camino de Fisterra and additional
                                                   camino to Muxía. Muros is further south along the coast.

The Finisterre way or Camino de Fisterra is the lesser known encore to the Camino de Santiago. It connects the Camino de Santiago from the cathedral of Santiago to a town called Fisterra, which translated from Galician literally means land's end. Even though now it is typically an addition to the Way of St. James, the Camino de Fisterra is believed to predate Christianity. It was first traveled because, as the end of the earth, Fisterra was believed to be where the sun died and the worlds of the living and the dead met. It was a place for prayers and offerings to the gods. Fisterra, and Muros for that matter, are located on the Costa da Morte (coast of death), which is named for the large number of shipwrecks and deaths that have occurred along the treacherous coast.

                                      The coast of death. Looks inviting, right? 

The Camino de Fisterra is 88 km long and is typically traveled in 3-4 days. I completed the first part which is 20 km from Santiago to Negreira. I set out in the late morning from Santiago at 10:30 AM, stopped for lunch around 2:00 at a 13th century bridge that crosses the Rio Tambre, and arrived in Negreira at about 3:45. Negreira is a town of about 7,000 people, but because it was Sunday, almost everything was closed. After a coffee break, I caught the bus to Santiago and was home at the tail end of siesta. 

                                                                   One of the markers pointing the way out 

                                                             of Santiago.

                                              My picnic spot in Ponte Maceira

Along the way were beautiful woods, open fields, farmland, and cute rural towns. The sunny weather forecast fortunately proved accurate and it was a perfect day for a walk. The path was well marked and easy to follow. Although a time-consuming activity for a tourist, the day trip was an excellent way to see the beauty of the Gailician countryside. I may even walk the same route another time. I also plan to continue to walk parts of the Camino de Fisterra until I reach the end. I know the professional pilgrims and purists will judge me for it, but nothing beats being able to sleep in your own bed after a long day of walking.