First School Visit

On the morning of Wednesday, September 28 I nervously made my way to the Santiago bus station. I boarded a bus to Muros to visit my school for the first time. Until that point my only contact had been via email with a teacher named Chindo who thankfully spoke English. Practicing Spanish is of course important, but there are times where it is a relief to have someone who can at least translate for you in moments of confusion. I am placed at a secondary school called IES Plurilingüe Fontexería with students aged 12-16. I walked to the school from the bus stop along the seaside. Fishing boats were out in the bay and it was uncharacteristically sunny, which gave the water a nice sparkle. I walked up to the main office through throngs of teenagers and introduced myself. For a moment I was worried the secretary would have no idea who I was, but thankfully recognition crossed her face and she gave me a warm smile. She led me into an office and announced my arrival. Immediately I was swarmed with smiles, introductions, and double air kisses all around. A stylish, bubbly teacher asked if I’d like a coffee, which of course I did. We all went to a cafetería (not a lunchroom cafeteria, in Spanish cafetería is just a coffee shop as in café-teria). I met Chindo, with whom I’d been communicating and Conchi, who is my coordinator. I met the English department and countless other teachers whose names I will have to re-learn. But everyone was warm and welcoming. The English department worked hard to give me a three-day per week schedule by reorganizing my 12 hours into Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday classes. They went out of their way to organize carpool rides for me from Santiago. Both of these things they absolutely did not have to do for me, and their effort on both fronts showed me how much they wanted to help me and make things easy for me. As I typically do when people fuss over me, I wanted to cry.  By the end of the day I knew it would be a good year. Conchi gave me a big hug at the bus stop and reminded me where I was to meet for the carpool Monday morning in Santiago. I am so grateful that these wonderful people are at my school and I’m excited to spend the year with them. Now I just need to survive the Spanish teenagers. 

A view of my path to school from the bus stop

Piso Sweet Piso

Before I left for Spain, people would often ask me, “so they have an apartment over there for you?” to which I would reply no, I was planning to move to a foreign country without a place to live, not knowing anyone, and would somehow make it work. Why did I decide to do this again? Oh yeah,  tapas.

In all seriousness though, I was apprehensive to say the least about moving to Spain without knowing even what city I would be living in. Originally I had planned to visit my school in Muros in order to decide whether to live in Muros or live in the larger Santiago. The decision was tough. Muros provides the opportunity for a quaint, historic fishing village on the coast. With exquisite seafood, seaside views, and charming village life. Santiago on the other hand offered a larger, more international experience as it hosts not only other auxiliaries, but Erasmus students, and pilgrims finishing the camino. Santiago is also a university town, with the University of Santiago, offering an injection of energy into the city through its roughly 30,000 students.

My plan to visit both places went awry. I ended up immediately loving Santiago and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. What can I say, I’m a city person at heart despite my romantic notions of quaint, coastal living. The reality is I would go absolutely bonkers if I felt stuck in a town of only 10,000 people every weekend. The reassuring part of my decision to live in Santiago is that I am teaching in Muros three days a week and will end up spending a great deal of time there. I won’t have to miss out on beautiful seaside life because a part of my week is set up around being there on a regular basis. Living in Santiago however, allows me the freedom to make weekend plans in the city or to travel from the convenient train station and international airport.

Although a daunting task, the apartment hunt went smashingly. I ended up looking at only three apartments and ultimately went with my favorite location. My apartment is a duplex in Praza de Fuenterrabía, which is a quiet plaza (in the regional language, Gallego, it's Praza instead of plaza) situated on the edge of historic district but adjacent to the road that splits the new part of town from the old part. Depending on the direction I walk exiting the apartment, I can be in either the old town or the new town. The building however, is in the historic district, which gives a rustic charm. Alameda, the park I’ve been referring to as baby central park, is about a block away and I can walk to the cathedral in about five minutes. 

 

Praza de Fuenterrabía

I am living with two Spanish university students. Teresa is studying medicine and Pedro is studying Environmental Engineering. Both are friendly and forgiving my inability to understand or speak Spanish before I've had my morning coffee. The vibe of the apartment is relaxed and cheerful. It feels like home.

 

The entryway 

Salon

 

Balcony view of the praza

 

My room

 

View from the skylight in my room (if you open it and look out)

First Impressions of Santiago de Compostela

Exploring the streets of Santiago, my first impression is how beautifully the city is composed. The color scheme consists of slate grey, crisp white, Celtic green, clay orange, and earthy brown. The characteristically cloudy sky is often threatening rain with a soft drizzle that casts these colors in a beautiful, if dark, light. It's the kind of cloudy haze that makes everything appear richer and more vibrant.

The city is quite cleanly split between the historic center and the new city. The historic center winds tightly around the massive cathedral with small, quaint roads filled with pedestrian traffic. Camino pilgrims are abundant with their characteristic walking sticks, worn backpacks, and scallop shells. The new town feels modern and sleek, yet still distinctly Spanish. It houses the large chain stores, larger grocery stores, and much more traffic than the old town. The modern town eventually spills out into the ultra-modern hospital and University of Santiago medical buildings with luxurious new builds that have a modern, industrial aesthetic.

Santiago also boasts numerous beautiful parks, Alameda has stunning views of the cathedral and neat rows of trees shading wooden benches that make an picturesque reading nook on rare sunny afternoons. Parque de San Domingos de Bonaval's paths lead you through an array of different foliage, passing from section to section of garden that each feels distinctly its own. Park Belvis, with its mazes of hedge and high walled stone walkways boast impressive views of the city and a quiet reprieve.

Alameda

While there is an active bus system, it is not necessary for daily life. In accordance with European attitudes that favor walking when possible, it is perfectly convenient to walk anywhere in the main parts of the old and new city. You could walk the length of the main city in less than an hour. Now it’s possible that during the rainy winters I may not want to walk 25 minutes across town, but for now it’s a nice excuse to get some fresh air.

Another homey element in Santiago are the tapas. When you order a drink at a bar or café, such as a coffee, glass of wine, or caña (small serving of beer), you are given a small plate of food at no extra charge. This may be tortilla de patata (Spanish omelette), a tostada with olive oil and jamón serrano, or other small bites. You can manage a nice dinner by having a few drinks with friends in the evenings.  This reminds me fondly of my time in Granada, where there were many fun evenings full of friends and tapas.


Tortilla. Delicious!

From the weather to the architecture to the juxtaposition of old and new to the international influence, I am loving my first glimpses of Santiago and I'm excited to explore more of the city.

And I'm Off!

It’s difficult to believe but two weeks ago I was saying goodbye to the two greatest parents in the world and the three wonderful weirdos I get to have as siblings. From Chicago O’Hare International Airport I flew to Madrid and then to Santiago de Compostela. I’m participating in the North American Language and Culture Assistants in Spain program for the 2016-2017 school year. Also referred to as Auxiliares Norteamericanos, the program offers the opportunity to work in a Spanish school as an English teaching assistant for twelve hours per week. In exchange you receive a monthly stipend, health insurance, and legal residency in Spain. If you’re thinking that sounds like a sweet deal, I’d have to agree. 

When I applied to the program, I requested the northwest region of Spain, the autonomous community of Galicia. The infusion of Celtic culture into this rainy coastal region appealed to me from the outset. Although I loved the sunny south while I studied in Granada for six weeks in the spring of 2014, I was looking for a change of scenery. Fortunately, I was placed at IES Plurilingüe Fontexería in the small fishing town of Muros on the Atlantic coast. The town has a population of about 10,000 people and is one of the best preserved historic fishing villages in the region.

Muros

Although I will be teaching in Muros, I arrived thirty-four miles inland in Galicia's capital city Santiago de Compostela. It's larger than Muros with a population of about 95,000 and is home to one of the world's oldest universities, the University of Santiago de Compostela. It is also the destination of the famed Camino de Santiago or Way of Saint James, a  pilgrimage of varying routes that leads to the apostle Saint James' remains in the Cathedral of Santiago. Santiago de Compostela roughly translates to Saint James (Santiago) of the Starry Field (de Compostela) in reference to the discovery of the remains of Saint James in the location of the present day Cathedral.

 

Santiago de Compostela

 

Routes of the Camino de Santiago

I am fortunate to have the opportunity to spend my year in this incredible part of a country I've come to love. I plan to use this blog as a diary of my experience living and teaching English in Spain and as a way of keeping friends and family up to date on the goings on in Spain and in my travels. I’m unsure what’s in store for me here, but I’m excited for the adventure ahead.